Day 89: Bonnybridge, Falkirk to Helensburgh, Dunbartonshire

Virtual Walk: Scotland 2021

3rd April 2021: 73.38km walked today taking the total to 8649.88/8868km. 11.5% of 79 entries submitting 638.09km.

We continue along the Forth and Clyde Canal Towpath exploring more of the Antonine Wall as we do so until we reach Kirkintilloch. From here we head north, then northeast, following rivers and countryside paths to Balloch before heading cross-country to reach Helensburgh.

Route 23: St Andrews to Glasgow

We pass the Bonnyfield Local Nature Reserve opened in 2008, once the Bonnyfield Sand and Gravel Quarry. Bonny Water continues alongside the canal here as does the Antonine Wall along the canal’s south bank. We continue, past a set of 3 locks, walking under a small bridge before passing under the M80. When the A80 opened in the 1960s this led to the closure of the canal to traffic; it had to be raised for the waterway reopening in 2001.

The canal bends to the right before we reach Wyndford Lock, the canal widening shortly after we pass here. The Bonny Water ceases its journey with us, and the River Kelvin joins us from the north at Kelvinhead, a small village where the source of the river is located. The canal runs north of the Dullatur Marsh here, a Site of Special Scientific Interest cared for by the Scottish Wildlife Trust.

We cross the next bridge, the path leading uphill through trees, curving right alongside the Antonine Wall once more, leading us over Croy Hill (149m). Another Roman site found here comprises 2 forts, a bathhouse and civilian settlement remains; the settlement established to provide food and other services to the soldiers based here. As we climb over the hill, we come to the first then the second fort remains, just earthworks within the landscape today. The wall’s ditch runs across Croy Hill, the Romans having to cut through solid rock to create it; you have to applaud their tenacity! The outpost occupied a high position giving good views over the Firth of Forth and surrounding hills. From the top of the hill looking south, we can see Croy Quarry nestled at the bottom of the hill, which closed in 2018 due to its proximity to the Antonine Wall, ending over a century of extraction.

We continue downhill alongside the wall. The village of Croy sits to the south, but we continue on the John Muir Way which follows the line of the wall here. We pass to the north of Girnal Hill (94m) and climb Castle Hill (170m), surrounded by blaeberry bushes as we climb, whilst spread across the hill’s northside is the Strone Plantation of mainly fir and spruce trees. At the top, a Roman fortlet once stood on the site of an earlier Iron Age fort; nothing visible remains today. On our descent we pass over Bar Hill (161m), looking out over the Kelvin Valley to the Campsie Fells on the military road passing between another fort and the wall. Some of the lower-level stonework is visible at this site of the fort platform as well as the east gate, the headquarters building and a bathhouse. An altar to a Roman god found on this site can be viewed at the Hunterian Museum in Glasgow.

Once downhill a lane leads us onto Main Street at the Twechar War Memorial, where we bear right and head over the canal to Twechar Farm. Twechar is a former mining village, the first pits being sunk on the northern shore of the canal in the 1860s, remaining open until 1964. The area has undergone regeneration in recent years, so a lot of the old coal miners’ housing is no longer here. We turn left along the towpath at the farm reaching the derelict Shirva Stables, an old canal stable block built to rest teams of canal horses who pulled the boats along the water; although ruined they are clearly of excellent quality. When the waterways fell into decline the stables were left to deteriorate.

Another short walk brings us past the site of the Auchendavy Roman fort. Much of this site's archaeology was destroyed by the builders of the Forth and Clyde Canal. Slight earthworks are still visible despite the disruption over the centuries.

After a further 2 kilometres, our surroundings become increasingly built up as we arrive in Kirkintilloch in East Dunbartonshire, an ancient town once part of the Antonine Wall itself. The remains of the original site are located on a small hill in Peel Park, the wall no longer visible in the town. Its name means ‘the fort at the head of the ridge’; the Burgh of Kirkintilloch was founded in 1211. The town grew in the mid-1700s with the development of textile-based industries. The canal boosted industry with its development through the town centre in 1773. Surrounding coalfields began to carry coal to the canal here in the early 1800s. Kirkintilloch was a big supporter of the Temperance Movement; the Temperance Act of 1913 saw the banning of alcohol in certain areas of Scotland. Areas could simply vote to stay ‘wet’ or go ‘dry’. Kirkintilloch stayed dry until the 1970s when it was voted out by people moving into the area, changing the balance of opinion.

We don't go into the centre of town but leave the canal towpath onto Hillhead Road taking us north to walk a disused railway line, the Strathkelvin Railway Path. The John Muir Way shares the Railway Path here. The line closed in 1951 and is now utilised as a recreational path running for 12.6 kilometres. This section of tree-lined path runs to the left of Glazert Water, a tributary of the River Kelvin, taking us through Milton of Campsie, a large village nestling at the foot of the Campsie Fells, whose name means ‘fairy hills’.

Continuing through open fields we enjoy views of the Campsie Fells on our way to Lennoxtown. The fells are a range of volcanic hills formed along the Campsie Fault in central Scotland, the highest peak in its range being Earls Seat (578m). The fells were used by Monty Python to film scenes for ‘The Meaning of Life’ (1983), standing in for Natal during the Anglo-Zulu War of 1879. It was so cold on one of the filming days that the extras, who were to dress as Zulus, refused to put on their costumes, so filming had to be abandoned for the day. The joys of filming in Scotland!

Lennoxtown was once known as Newton of Campsie, until its close association with the Lennox mills, saw its name change to Lennox Town in 1786 when a calico printing works was established near the old Lennox Corn Mill. The printing of cotton cloth became a big industry here as did the production of locally mined alum. Charles Macintosh was the owner of the chemical works; he would go on to produce waterproof fabric used in a garment called a ‘MacKintosh’. In 1968 Somerville’s, who had previously owned the Kali Nail Works in Lennoxtown, invested in machinery for a new market, making specialised nails for nail guns etc. It was to become the largest nail factory in Scotland and the third largest in the UK. However, the power cuts of the early 1970s brought about the company's early demise, as it was unable to run the machinery on the reduced power, so the factory closed for good.

Passing through Lennoxtown we pass Redhills Community Woodland on our left and the playing fields of Ferguson Park to our right. We continue along the path crossing Glazert Water then Kirk Burn. South of Glazert Water is the location of the old Lennox Castle Estate.

Lennox castle was built in 1837-41 by the Lennox family, who sold it in 1927 to the Glasgow Corporation who established a hospital for the mentally ill here. Further buildings were erected, and the hospital opened in 1936, the castle used as a nurse’s home; it became part of the NHS when it was formed in 1948. Between 1941 and 1964 a maternity hospital also operated on the site as part of the World War 2 Emergency Medical Scheme. It was here that the singer, Lulu, was born in 1964; whenever she is asked where she was born, she replies ‘in a castle’. Hidden away in this rural setting it held 1700 patients at its height and has a sad and difficult past, as do many from this period. There is a free 8-hour Open University course on Lennox Castle Hospital exploring the history of care institutions of the 20th century, Lennox Castle Hospital being the case study, should you wish to read further. Closure began in phases between 1992-2002; the only remaining building on site is the castle, which is derelict following a fire in 2008; the remaining grounds scheduled for housing development. Celtic’s training ground, built within the grounds, officially opened in 2007 comprising 3 natural grass pitches, one floodlit artificial pitch, and other excellent facilities used for training by Celtic Football Club and other groups.

The Glazert Water splits to become the Finglen Burn heading north, as we continue along the Pow Burn. As we look over the fields to the north, we can see the Campsie Fells and the Lennox Hills as we walk into Strathblane. The Railway Path finishes here, and we continue to follow the John Muir Way beside Blane Water, passing through woodlands northwards into Strathblane. Passing the Parish Church and Kirk Rooms, we turn left at the Kirkhouse Inn following our route onto Gowk Stane Road, an old drover’s road. It was named after a rounded boulder which sits in the Blane Valley. Local folklore states that if you slide down its west face your wish will be granted.

We pass the houses at Boards, travelling south to join the Red Brae Road which leads us to Carbeth Loch. Located at the foot of Carbeth Hill, we walk around the south of the Loch, where we see many huts dotted about the woodlands and hillside. These huts were established in 1918 by owner Barnes-Graham who was sympathetic to the ideals of the Clarion Movement (1891), which inspired people to create a network of leisure clubs and facilities. The estate granted World War 1 soldiers camping rights and also encouraged families, living on the banks of the Clyde in heavily polluted slums, to camp here on holidays and weekends. In 1929 the Carbeth swimming pond or lido was installed by damming a nearby burn but closed due to silting in 1972. The arrival of World War 2 saw more families living here to seek refuge from the air raids, workers commuted to Glasgow, some daily as it was only 10 miles away. By the end of the war, there were 191 huts paying ground rent here.

In 1996, Barnes-Graham descendants introduced large rent rises with a plan to revitalise the inherited estate. The hutters went on rent strike, eviction notices followed, and it became a very public affair. The hutters formed Carbeth Hutters Community Company in 2008, and the land was sold to them in 2013 in one of central Scotland’s first community land buyouts. Around 140 huts remain; they don't have running water or electricity and use composting toilets. In recent years hutting, a Scandinavian past time, has enjoyed increased popularity, an escape from our technological world into a simpler life with echoes to the past.

We move away from the Loch to reach Carbeth Inn, which opened in 1816 and ceased trading 200 years later. We turn left onto Stockiemuir Road, then right taking us along a track next to fishing ponds. We continue along further tracks and paths for just over 4 kilometres to reach Burncrooks Reservoir, a reservoir which supplies water to the city of Glasgow. We follow the partially tree-lined south shore, then cross a burn to follow the western shore. We are now in West Dunbartonshire with views on our left of the Dumbarton Muir and Kilpatrick Hills.

Leaving the reservoir behind we continue downhill, then cross a footbridge to pass through Auchineden Forest, a fir plantation recently felled in places. On emerging from the trees, we bear left, following more tracks and minor roads for 7 kilometres passing several houses and farms to reach the Stirling Road (A811). We are now in the Loch Lomond and Trossachs National Park, established in 2002 and boasting 21 Munros within its boundaries.

After crossing the A811 we head into Balloch Country Park. We reach Balloch Castle first, sitting on the shore of Loch Lomond; the land belonged to the Lennox family from 1072 and the first castle was constructed here in 1238. After 1390 the Earls moved their base onto Inchmurrin Island on Loch Lomond. Remains of a 14th-century castle are found there though only earthworks are visible today. The estate passed through a few owners before John Buchanan purchased it in 1800. Having made his money as a banking partner and hat maker, he had the current castle constructed in 1808-9, designed by London architect Robert Luger in Tudor Gothic style, and established the parkland around it. It was sold again in c1830 and passed through several owners before the Corporation of the City of Glasgow (Glasgow City Council today) purchased the castle and estate in 1915 for public use. It is still owned by the Glasgow City Council but has been leased to West Dunbartonshire Council since 1975. The estate was registered as a country park in 1980. The castle is now lying vacant, closed to the public and is on the at-risk register, having once been used as the park visitor centre and offices. The estate gardens and landscaping are listed in the Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscapes in Scotland.

We wander through the grounds making our way to the water's edge where we follow a path south along the shore, bringing us into Balloch itself. Balloch, whose name comes from the Scottish Gaelic ‘baile or bal’ for village literally meaning ‘village on the loch’. It sits at the northern end of the Vale of Leven, straddling the River Leven as it leaves the loch, and is connected to the town of Alexandria and the village of Jamestown, part of the Vale of Leven conurbation.

For centuries Balloch existed as a ferry crossing across the River Leven until the growth of tourism in the 1800s. It remains a draw for tourists today travelling to visit the National Park and Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park (it sits on its southern edge). Alexandria is home to the Loch Lomond Distillery, recently finding itself in the spotlight due to the launch of a new blended whisky, a collaboration with our coach, Sam Heughan, called ‘The Sassenach’.

We cross the bridge and continue along the shoreline to Balloch Steam Slipway and Pier. The Maid of the Loch, a paddle steamer constructed in 1953 is berthed here, undergoing restoration after operating for 29 years on the Loch. The slipway nearby was opened in 1902 to move boats in and out of the water and operated until 1989. It was restored and reopened in 2006 to bring the Maid of the Loch out of the water as required. It consists of a ramp, carriage and steam-powered winch and it is thought to be the last steam-operated winch in Europe.

Further round from the slipway we come to Lomond Shores and SEA LIFE Aquarium in Drumkinnon Tower. The retail village and aquarium were opened in 2002 to provide a focal point for visitors at the southern end of the Loch, as well as a little retail therapy in a scenic environment. The aquarium was designed by leading Scottish architect David Page and is home to native Scottish species.

We leave the loch-side now, passing the Bird of Prey Centre which is home to 25 species; the centre also works alongside the SSPCA to rehabilitate wild birds. At the Old Luss Road, we turn left, then right onto Stoneymollan Road. This takes us along tracks and grassy paths past Auchiewannie Woods, through Stoneymollan and Darleith Muirs then over Gouk Hill (277m). The hill forms part of the Highland Fault Boundary Line and, at its peak, you get fantastic views of Loch Lomond, Balloch Country Park and the Campsie Fells .

Skirting the base of Ben Bowie (313m) we walk another 2.3 kilometres through Bannachra Woods on Bannachra Muir’s forestry road, some sections logged, others not, leading us downhill to meet the Luss Road. We bear left and begin our descent into Helensburgh, now in Argyll and Bute, passing 2 reservoirs, once part of the local water supply system, but now used by Helensburgh Angling Club.