Day 15: Claonaig to Machrihanish, Mull of Kintyre

Virtual Walk: Scotland 2021

19th January 2021: 103.05km walked today taking the total to 1593.53/8854km. 6% of 241 people's totals submitting 1717.47km.

Route 4: Mull of Kintyre to Kennacraig

From the ferry terminal we follow the Kintyre Way to Claonaig before walking along the road south through a remnant of an oak and birchwood forest. After about 1km we turn right at a car park to follow the track west, tussocky moorland on our left and a forest plantation on our right.

We follow the Larachmor Burn before reaching Lochan Fraoich, the ‘heather lochan’, with views to the Paps of Jura in the distance. We then pass a second smaller lochan, Lochan a'Chreimh, before reaching the large Loch Ciaran after another 3km.

We soon reach Clachan, one of the oldest villages in the area with white-washed cottages and a church built around 1760 which replaced an earlier building, possibly a church dedicated to Columbanus. The present church was the principal place of worship for North Kintyre and in the churchyard are medieval grave slabs collected under a lean-to protecting them from the weather. Nearby is Ballinakill estate which was formerly owned by clan McAlister (McAllister) until Coll McAlister sold the estate to Colin Campbell of Skipness in 1739: Coll McAlister left Ballinakill with a group of people who all settled in Cross Creek in North Carolina. The estate was later bought by Sir William Mackinnon, 1st Baronet of Strathaird and Loup, who founded the British India Steam Navigation Company and built Ballinakill House in 1893. It is now known as Balinakill Country House and can be rented as a holiday house.

From Clachan we take a path north to the top of Dun Skeig. At the top are the remains of three forts including a vitrified fort from the Iron Age. The main reason for the climb is to see the fantastic views up West Loch Tarbert and across to Gigha, Jura and its famous ‘Paps’, and Islay. From the top we retrace our steps before turning left to reach Portachoillan to take the coastal path back to Clachan. If we’re lucky we may be able to spot more otters along this section of the coast.

Leaving Clachan again on the Kintyre Way we follow a fairly busy road before continuing on pebbly and sandy beaches. This is a great place for bird watching and we might spot seals and otters. All along this part of the coast we will be able to see the islands of Gigha, Jura and Islay.

On the way to Tayinloan, we can divert to see the megalithic Ballochroy Standing Stones, the tallest of which is 3.4 metres and where there is also a burial cist, before we head to Rhunahaorine Point. There is a trig point on the grass to the left of the beach here, used to map out the shape of Britain for the Ordnance Survey back in 1936 - at only 2 metres above the sea, it is the lowest trig point in Scotland. Rhunahaorine Point is an important wintering ground for geese and the shore is littered with countless scallop and cockle shells.

Tayinloan is where the ferry leaves to go to Gigha which was named by the Vikings ‘Gudey’, which means ‘Good Isle’ or ‘God’s Isle’. It is the most southerly of the Hebridean Islands and was bought by the Scarlett family in the 19th century who built Achamore House. It was then bought by Colonel James Horlick, of Horlicks’ drinks fame, who created Achamore Gardens in 1944 with the gardener Kitty Lloyd Jones. He filled the gardens with rhododendrons, as well as rare and unusual plants which flourish in Gigha’s microclimate, drier and warmer than would normally be associated with the west coast of Scotland due to the influence of the North Atlantic Drift. In 2002 the islanders of Gigha bought the island in a community buy out. We don’t visit today but it is worth making the trip to see Achamore Gardens via a 20-minute ferry trip if you visit this area.

After leaving Tayinloan the Kintyre Way soon turns east and climbs first through open countryside and then through forestry to Deucheran Hill where there is a wind farm. We then head towards Carradale on the east coast with its picturesque harbour and large sandy beach overlooking Kilbrannan Sound towards Arran’s west coast. It has a strong fishing history, largely shell fishing today.

From the Kintyre Way we take the path heading down to the B879 and then turn left to walk to the picturesque Carradale Harbour. From here we follow the sign to Airds Castle which is on a rocky outcrop but only has part of one wall remaining. This castle was held by the Lord of the Isles until it's forfeiture to the crown in the late 15th century and was strategically placed to enable its occupants to control the Kilbrannan Sound between Kintyre and Arran. We soon reach Port Righ Bay and follow the top of the cliff inland before reaching the road where we turn left to reach the Dunvalanree Hotel. We pass a natural arch on our left, where there may be feral goats sheltering, before turning back towards the houses and then veering left to reach Carradale Bay with its wide sandy beach. We walk along the top of the beach until we reach the Carradale Water, a tidal river, passing a caravan site before passing Carradale House. Carradale House was built in the 17th century and then was extended in 1844 by David Bryce. In 1937 it was bought by Naomi Mitchison (CBE) who was married to labour politician Gilbert Mitchison. She was a prolific Scottish author in several genres and lived there until her death in 1999. Following the road, we pass the village hall, a former water mill, until we reach the track we originally came down at Port na Storm car park, where we turn left to go back onto the Kintyre Way.

We continue along the Kintyre Way through woodland, on the aptly named Deer Hill Walk, where we may spot red, roe or sika deer. Soon the track turns left and recrosses the road beside the Carradale Heritage Centre. This centre is in an old schoolhouse and has displays on local industries including fishing, forestry and agriculture.

Leaving Carradale behind we now follow the Kintyre Way as it heads south, first past Dippen Bay, then inland past Torrisdale Castle. The castle was built in 1815 in the Scottish Gothic style, using sandstone quarried in Wigtownshire, by General Keith Macalister and designed by James Gillespie Graham one of Scotland’s most famous architects. The estate’s economy was driven by agriculture, forestry and fishing but now includes tourism as some of the cottages have been converted to be used for self-catering holidays. At Torrisdale there is also an organic tannery making naturally coloured sheepskin rugs using ancient tanning methods and a distillery, established in 2017, where they make handcrafted Kintyre Gin.

The Kintyre Way now takes us across moorland and through forestry plantations for 15km before we reach the picturesque reservoir, Lussa Loch. This is the largest freshwater loch in Kintyre and a good place to look for ospreys or listen for cuckoos in the spring.

We continue south to Campbeltown which we will return to later and then follow the Kintyre Way west along the road to Machrihanish.