Day 14: Catacol, Isle of Arran to Claonaig, Mull of Kintyre

Virtual Walk: Scotland 2021

18th January 2021: 116.50km walked today taking the total to 1490.48/8854km. 6% of 261 people's totals submitting 1941.67km.

Route 3: Isle of Arran

Route 4: Mull of Kintyre to Kennacraig

We descend into the hamlet of Catacol which means ‘gully of the wild cat’ in Old Norse, referring to the wildcats that may have been found there. An inn is located here along with 12 cottages called the 12 Apostles. Each of these fisherman’s cottages has a different upper window so that when the men were at sea, their wives would light a candle in the window and each man would know which house was signalling.

Catacol is also the home to three of the world’s rarest and most endangered tree species. A National Nature Reserve in one of Glen Catacol’s glens is home to the Arran Whitebeam (Sorbus arranensis), Cut-leaved Whitebeam (Sorbus pseudofennica) and a new species the Catacol Whitebeam (Sorbus pseudomeinichii); they are only found on Arran other than a few kept elsewhere for conservation purposes.

We continue past the hamlet of Thundergay where a path can be taken up to Coire Fhionn Lochan with its white beach and views of the surrounding hills. We then reach Pirnmill, named after a mill which made pirns (wooden bobbins) for the cotton industry. The mill was established here in 1780, powered by water, but stopped making bobbins in 1840 when the source of wood ran out. Prior to this the village was called Penrioch and it, along with other clachans nearby, made a living out of fishing, crofting, illicit distilling and smuggling. From the late 19th century, before the pier was built at Lochranza, Pirnmill was the place where the steamers stopped and the visitors ferried ashore by boat.

Continuing south, some of the walk is on the road and part on the shoreline. Near the road at Auchagallon there is a stone circle, built about 4000 years ago and thought to be a kerbed burial cairn. There are 15 upright stone slabs making up the circle although it looks like some are missing as there are gaps. Most are made of red sandstone except for two which are grey granite.

When the road crosses a bridge over the Machrie Water we make a detour to visit the stone circles on Machrie Moor, one of Arran’s most magical places. There are 6 stone circles here, erected about 2000 BC, now under the care of Historic Environment Scotland. It has been determined that these stone circles replaced timber ones probably erected about 2500 BC. The stone circles are all different: one has two concentric circles, some are made of granite, some are made of sandstone, another alternates granite slabs with that of limestone. The circles were associated with Neolithic and Bronze Age religious and ceremonial practices. The stone circles seem to align with a prominent notch at the head of Machrie Glen, where the midsummer sunrise would have been seen.

Once we return to the Arran Coastal Path we continue along the road until we reach King’s Cave Car Park. We continue along the shore, passing several caves before reaching the King’s Cave which has a large metal gate protecting its entrance. King Robert the Bruce is reported to have taken refuge here and it is claimed that he watched a spider on the cave wall try time after time to spin its web. This story did not emerge until a long time later and was initially said to have been written about Sir James Douglas, so there is some skepticism if it was ever true. Inside the cave are Christian and pre-Christian carvings; in earlier times it was known as Fionn’s cave, named after a legendary warrior.

Travelling south we take a detour to visit the biggest Iron Age fort on Arran, Doon Fort, which is on the top of Drumadoon Point. This headland has impressive columnar basalt cliffs which we walk around to reach the home of the unique 12-hole Shiskine Golf Club. This was founded in 1896 as a 9-hole course but was then extended to 18 holes. The extension had just been completed when World War 1 happened and 6 of the holes fell into disuse. The course is regarded to be amongst the top 100 courses in the UK and is one of only 2 courses in Europe to have 12 holes.

Walking round the bay we arrive in Blackwaterfoot. It, like other villages in Arran, has a tiny harbour and is situated where the Black Water flows under a stone bridge into the sea. From here we continue our route to the south coast of Arran. After passing Kilpatrick Point, we pass 3 caves, the middle of which is the Preaching Cave. This was used as a church from 1843 after Earl Hamilton cleared whole villages leading many people to abandon the established church for the Free Church. The church was led by William McKinnon who became a preacher after being affected by the clearances.

Keeping along the shore for a time the Arran Coastal Way leaves the coast to reach the village of Sliddery where we walk along the A814 for some time passing Lagg Distillery. This is a new distillery which only opened in 2019 and produces a peated whisky. Lagg itself is a small hamlet and has one of the oldest inns in Arran, the Lagg Inn dating to 1791, as well as a few Neolithic cairns. We cross the Torrylinn Burn, then turn right at a sign pointing to Torrylinn Cairn. This is a Neolithic burial chamber and is a typical Clyde-type tomb although it has been disturbed over the years. From here the path takes us back to the coast.

The Arran Coastal Path takes us round Bennan Head, where we must be careful that the tide is right, so we don’t have problems. Along this coast we pass the Black or Monster Cave, the biggest cave on Arran at 25m high, 12m wide and 30m deep, which has been worn away by the action of the sea. Arrowheads and flakes of flint have been found here which indicates it was used as a shelter hundreds of years ago.

Past the cave we may see seals basking on the rocks at low tide and if we’re lucky we may spot otter. We should also be able to see the houses of Kildonan in the distance and the lighthouse island of Pladda just offshore. Its name Pladda comes from the Norse for ‘Flat Isle’. A lighthouse was first built on the island in 1790 by Thomas Smith then a lower light was built shortly after to distinguish it from other nearby lighthouses; at that time there was no flashing mechanism to differentiate between them. This lower light was built by Thomas Smith’s apprentice and stepson, Robert Stevenson. It was manned until it was automated in the 1980s. Further in the distance we may be able to spot Ailsa Craig.

At Kildonan, named after Saint Donan and said to be buried on Arran, we visit the remains of the Kildonan Castle. This was built in the 13th century by the MacDonalds, the Lords of the Isles, to defend against enemies attacking through the Firth of Clyde. It was later used as a hunting lodge by the kings of Scotland, including King Robert III, when the island belonged to the Crown. In1544 it then became the property of the Hamiltons, the Earls of Arran.

From Kildonan we retrace our steps to take the inland route of the Arran Coastal Way. The path climbs up to the road where we follow our route to a path which now climbs through woodland. We eventually reach a path with a signpost to the Giant’s Graves which we take to visit the 2 Neolithic chambered tombs and enjoy the view east towards Holy Island and Whiting Bay. We then retrace our steps and head west before stopping at the spectacular double cascade of Eas a' Chrannaig or Glenashdale Falls.

Walking down beside the Glenashdale Burn we arrive alongside Whiting Bay. The bay is made up of small settlements which are now encompassed into Whiting Bay, ranging from Largymore at the south end to Kingscross at the north. This transformation began when a ferry started between here and Saltcoats in 1790 which was then followed by the steamers arriving in 1830. As we walk Whiting Bay, we pass the pier which was built in 1901 to allow steamers to land passengers directly into the village instead of them rowing ashore in small boats. The area also expanded when people moved to the coast after the inland crofting areas were cleared. Continuing along the coast we pass Kingscross, the most northerly part of Whiting Bay, used by the Vikings as a settlement and burial site. Robert the Bruce also sailed from here to Ayrshire in February 1307 on his way to regain control of Scotland.

Following the path we walk along new boardwalks to reach Cordon and then Lamlash. Along this part of the coast we have great views across to Holy Isle which we will be visiting shortly. Lamlash is the largest village on Arran and Lamlash Bay provides safe mooring for boats, in part due to being sheltered by Holy Isle. It is here that King Hakkon of Norway sheltered before his defeat at the Battle of Largs in 1263, more recently it served as a naval base during both world wars. However, it was in Brodick that the ferry terminal was built and so Lamlash is mainly home to yachts. Its name, Lamlash, dates to the 6th century when an Irish monk called Molaise spent some years in a cave on Holy Isle. The island was named Eilean Molais which eventually evolved to Lamlash and is what the island was called until the early 19th century. The name was then given to the village that grew up facing the island.

As we walk into Lamlash we pass the Octopus Centre. This is Scotland’s first Marine Protected Area (MPA) visitor centre which is run by COAST (a community group who succeeded in getting the government to set up a No Take Zone and the MPA in Arran). At the centre we can learn more about what lies beneath the seas in the MPA and look at the interactive exhibits which includes touch tanks. Leaving the Octopus Centre, we pass the red sandstone church built in 1886 by the 12th Duke of Hamilton. It has a large tower which houses a peal of 9 bells, the largest peal to still exist cast for a Scottish church in a Scottish foundry.

From here we walk to the pier to take the ferry to Holy Isle. Since1992 it has been owned by the Samye Ling Buddhist Community who have established the Centre for World Peace and Health on the north of the island, a residential centre where you can go on retreats and courses. Apart from a nunnery on the south coast of the isle the rest of the island is a nature reserve. The Holy Isle has had a few names; originally called ‘Island of the Water Spirit’ (Inis Shroin) in the 6th century it was renamed Molaise’s Island, and by the 19th century, it was known as Holy Isle, which it has remained to this day. It has monastic, Viking and Scottish history. As we approach the island, we can see the Buddhist centre behind the jetty; as it is a sacred island, on our visit, we are asked to abide by their Five Golden Rules.

After arriving at the jetty, we pass 8 stupas, small monuments representing the great events in Buddha’s life, before we turn left, passing through a wall to walk uphill. We pass through native woodland before crossing onto heather moorland and, as we walk, we might see some of the animals which are kept on the island: Eriskay ponies, bearded Saanen goats and Soay Sheep. We reach a cairn at Mullach Beag before reaching the trig point on the highest point at Mullach Mor, 314 metres. There are great views over Arran and Goatfell as well as views east to the mainland. We need to be careful descending as there are steep cliffs, but these are roped off. We turn left to walk to the Pillar Rock Lighthouse, the first square lighthouse built by the Stevenson family. Retracing our steps, we reach another lighthouse on the other side of the island facing Arran, also built by the Stevenson family and known locally as Wee Donald. We continue northwest to follow the western shoreline back to the jetty, passing bright, colourful Buddhist paintings on the rocks. About halfway back we reach the Holy Well, a water source reputed to have healing powers, shortly after which there are steps to the cave where Saint Molaise lived for 20 years in the 6th century. The walls and the ceiling of this cave are adorned with Norse runes, probably from the 13th century, as well as an unusually designed cross. Returning to the jetty we go to the Boathouse, an information centre where we have a cuppa while we wait for the return ferry.

Leaving Lamlash we head back to Brodick via Clauchlands Point with views to tiny Hamilton Isle just off the coast. Here we head uphill, past a pillbox to Dun Fionn rather than taking the coastal route. After 1 kilometre the path heads up the rocky slopes to reach the summit trig point where, although there is not much left of the fort, there are stunning views.

Following the path westwards, we turn right to head down to Corriegills before joining the Arran Coastal Path and turn west to walk into Brodick. After walking north through the village along the Arran Coastal Way, we cross a footbridge over the Glencloy Water before passing an area of salt marsh, a golf course and then walk along the fantastic beach. We cross the Cnocan Water, before we head along the A841 for a short time, passing a tiny harbour below Brodick Castle, before we turn left to walk an uphill path, signed Merkland Wood. The path takes us across the hillside before zigzagging back down to the A841 just before Corrie. We continue along the road, which we have already walked along on our first visit to Lochranza, but this time when we reach Sannox we continue along the A841 rather than taking the coastal path. At North Sannox Bridge it is possible to walk up the North Sannox Burn to take in a series of waterfalls with views across to Goatfell and the other mountains of Arran. This is where the profile of the mountains is given the name the ‘Sleeping Warrior’, the Witches Step being the cleft between the helmet and the nose. We then retrace our steps and continue along the road westwards.

As we enter Lochranza we pass the Isle of Arran Distillery which produces a single malt whisky using water from Loch Na Davie which cascades down the Easan Biorach Burn through 6 waterfalls. This distillery opened in 1995 and is one of the few independent distilleries still found in Scotland, a sister distillery to the one that we visited in Lagg in the south of Arran. The 2 distilleries produce vastly different whiskies; the whisky here is un-peated while the one produced in Lagg is peated.

We then head down to the ferry terminal to catch the ferry across the Kilbrannan Sound to Claonaig on the Mull of Kintyre.