Day 29: Craigallian Loch, Stirlingshire to Parliamentary Road, Argyll

Virtual Walk: Scotland 2021

2nd February 2021: 96.29km walked today taking the total to 2912.20/8854km. 8% of 138 entries submitting 1203.67km.

Today we continue along the West Highland Way through Balmaha, along the shore of Loch Lomond, through Tyndrum to Loch Tulla.

Route 8: Milngavie to Fort William

On leaving Mugdock Wood, we reach a minor road nicknamed the Khyber Pass before we reach Craigallian Loch. Near the loch is the Craigallian Fire Memorial commemorating a campfire which burned beside the loch from 1920 until the late 1930s; it was extinguished at the start of World War 2. During the depression of the 1930s, it was a beacon of hope for young unemployed people who came from Glasgow and Clydebank seeking adventure. People from all walks of life who enjoyed the outdoors met here, from the unemployed to idealists, from intellectuals to political activists.

After passing Carbeth Loch the path heads north towards a prominent wooded hill called Dumgoyach. Before reaching this hill we are able to see the Duntreath (Dumgoyach) Standing Stones in a field not far away from the path. Nearby is Duntreath Castle, the ancestral home of the Edmonstone family who were granted the lands by King Robert III in 1435 and whose descendants still live there. The keep was built in the 15th century and has been subsequently extended, with a wing being added in the 19th century.

After going round Dumgoyach hill, we cross the Blane Water before we follow a path along an old railway line through Strath Blane. We pass Glengoyne distillery at the foot of Dumgoyne, a volcanic plug on the edge of the Campsie Fells.

The path now leaves the old railway line and we cross Endrick Water on the Gartness Bridge to head north towards Drymen, which we have already visited on our walk. After Drymen, the path goes through Garadhban Forest before we cross moorland and head towards the top of Conic Hill. Conic Hill lies on the Highland Boundary Fault, which divides the Highlands from the Lowlands. From the top of the hill, even though it is only 358 metres high, there are fantastic views of Loch Lomond and its string of islands which run along the fault line.

We climb down from the top of the hill through moorland before entering a forest which takes us down to the village of Balmaha which sits on the shore of Loch Lomond. Walking through the village we pass a statue of Tom Weir. Tom Weir was a famous Scottish climber, author and TV presenter who loved the outdoors and this statue was unveiled on what would have been his hundredth birthday.

You could take a very nice diversion here by catching a small wooden ferry across to the very pretty Inchcailloch Island. Inchcailloch means the ‘Island of the cowled or old woman‘ and is thought to be named after an early 8th-century missionary, Saint Kentigerna who settled on the island. There are some lovely walks here through oak woodland, which is carpeted by bluebells in the spring., and a small beach on the south end at Port Bawn. There was a church on the island which was dedicated to St Kentigerna, but this fell into disuse in the 18th century, although the cemetery continued to be used until the 20th century.

From Balmaha we continue along the shores of Loch Lomond through ancient oak woodlands on an undulating path until we reach Rowardennan where we pass the path which climbs Ben Lomond, a very popular Munro. We also pass the Rowardennan War Memorial, a granite sculpture by Scottish artist, Doug Cocker. It is the focal point for the Ben Lomond National Memorial Park, a woodland established to commemorate the Scots who died during World War 2.

The next section of the West Highland Way is pretty challenging as it includes ancient woodland, forestry sections, as well as walking alongside the loch on a path which can be very rocky and rough. We pass Arklet Falls at Inversnaid, which we saw on a previous walk, before we start the toughest section of the walk. The path goes through native oak woodland, over rocks and tree roots, and we may catch a glimpse of the wild goats who live here. We pass Rob Roy’s Cave, a place where Rob Roy is said to have hidden when he was conducting raids on or hiding from the Duke of Montrose’s men after Rob lost £1000 he borrowed from the Duke, who then made him bankrupt in return.

At Ardleish there is a ferry across to Ardlui on the other side of the loch. When the ferry is operating it can be summoned by raising an orange ball. It is here that we leave Loch Lomond’s shores, continuing north past the hill, Cnap Mor, before arriving at Inverarnan.

It is worth crossing the River Falloch at this point to visit the Drovers Inn, reputed to be the most haunted hotel in Britain which opened in 1705. It takes its name from the Highland drovers who used to drive their cattle down the side of Loch Lomond. There are many tales of the ghosts associated with the inn including the ghost of an ancient cattle drover who wanders the hallways late at night!

We now head north through Glen Falloch, through woodlands of oak, birch, ash and alder. These woods were originally managed for timber and charcoal production and the bark was important for tanning leather. These woodlands are now being managed to allow them to regenerate by keeping out livestock and deer. We pass near the Falls of Falloch which are only 10m high but very impressive when the river is in spate.

We cross the River Falloch at Derrydaroch to continue along the river until we reach a sheep creep under the railway before using the tunnel under the A82. We then climb gently through grazing land on an old military road before reaching Crianlarich. The West Highland Way doesn’t go into Crianlarich, but it is a common place to stop. Crianlarich is a historic village, called the ‘Gateway to the Highlands’ and has been a major meeting point. It was where 2 military roads met in the 18th century, became a railway junction in the 19th century and is now where two major A roads meet: the A82 between Glasgow and Fort William and the A85 between Perth and Oban.

We walk through the Ewich Forest, cross over the Herive Burn before descending under the railway line, then across the A82 before crossing the River Fillan to reach St Fillan’s Priory. This priory was established by King Robert the Bruce in 1318 but not much is left of it as its stones were used to build nearby farmhouses. Beside the priory is an even older graveyard dating back to the 8th century.

After passing Auchtertyre, but before we use the underpass under the A82, we pass St Fillan’s Holy Well or Pool, a natural, deep pool at a sharp bend in the River Fillan. It is supposed to have been blessed by the Saint and was said to cure insanity. Once through the underpass we follow the River Fillan to reach Dal Righ or ‘King’s Field’ where Robert the Bruce was defeated by the MacDougalls of Lorn in 1306. After crossing the Crom Allt, we pass a lochan called the Lochan of the Lost Sword, named so as it is supposed to be where Robert the Bruce and many of his men threw their weapons as they escaped. Legend has it that the King’s sword still lies beneath the surface. Still following the Crom Allt we arrive at Tyndrum which translates as ‘the house on the ridge’.

Tyndrum owes its existence to old drover routes converging here. During the 18th and 19th centuries lead mining took place on the hill above the village, and there was a short gold rush in the early 19th century. It expanded further with the arrival of the railway and is the smallest village in the UK which has 2 railway stations.

From Tyndrum the West Highland Way heads north following an old military road, close to the West Highland Railway line, around the side of Beinn Odhar with Beinn Dorain dominating the landscape in front. When we cross the Allt Kinglass river if we look east, we can see the horseshoe viaduct of the West Highland Line. We follow the edge of Beinn Dorain, cross the railway and then make our way to Bridge of Orchy, a village which grew up around a bridge over the River Orchy. We then climb the hill to Mam Carraigh, through forest, then moorland to reach its peak, with views over Loch Tulla, before we descend to Inveroran. The Inveroran Hotel, which is an old coaching inn established in 1707, used to be on the main route north.

Leaving Inveroran we cross the Victoria Bridge before taking the old Parliamentary Road. Thomas Telford was commissioned by the Government in the early 19th century to make improvements and new routes for transportation throughout Scotland. Thomas Telford oversaw the replacement the old military road here which was then used until 1933.